Müller Thurgau wears a cloak of mystery. Originally, the variety was meant to be a cross of the widely loved Riesling with the little-known Rivaner. However, DNA testing has proved it to be a cross of Riesling with the table grape Madeleine Royale. The table grape seems to wear the pants in the family…there’s not much obvious Riesling character in Müller Thurgau. Still, when well made, as it often is in northern Italy, the grape shows it can create its own sense of excitement.