August is corn season, which means it is also corn-ice-cream season. I accidentally went on a monthlong bender and have tasted as many different versions as humanly possible. These are the best of the best.
—Zach Schiffman
1. Fan Fan Doughnuts’ Corn Soft Serve
It returns every year and it remains the undisputed king of corn soft serve: The staff suggests swirling it with blueberry soft serve, but I say go corn all the way.
2. Superiority Burger’s Corn Gelato
A tortilla-chip gelato earlier this year was more adventurous, but Superiority’s corn gelato is the most genuinely corny ice cream I tried all summer.
3. Ample Hills’ Corn to Run
This old favorite made an extremely limited return — less than a week — and sold out almost immediately in all locations. The flavor (the personal favorite of co-founder and former co-owner Jackie Cuscuna) has the nuttiest profile of the bunch, and some blueberry jam is just the perfect amount of sweet to cut through the savory.
4. Papa d’Amour’s Elote Corn Soft Serve
Dominique Ansel’s bakery is still churning out its viral butter-dipped soft serve, but the sweet-corn base dipped in elote butter and topped with Tajín and cotija is a layered journey with every bite. It’s the rare ice cream that might be too big: The size combined with the buttery decadence left me unable to finish the cone.
5. Ramblin’ Chick’s Corn Soft Serve
Cuscuna and her husband, Brian Smith, the couple that invented Corn to Run, tried their hand at a simpler sweet-corn flavor this summer that balanced notes of corn with their soft-serve base. It’s more muted than Fan Fan’s, but if you’re wanting something subtle, this is it.