Dinner Tonight: A glorious way to greet summer

An herby sauce and tangy slaw turn crispy fish cakes into stunning sandwiches.

What a glorious way to greet summer

Jack Bishop Author, editor, and avid home cook

Forget what the meteorological calendar says. Summer starts with Memorial Day weekend. And summer in my kitchen means sandwiches. They are so much fun to eat and match the casual summer vibe. I especially like a clever sandwich that surprises me.

As a kid, I ate my fair share of fish cakes made with leftover cod. Sometimes, the meal felt like penance. But if you start with fresh fish, quickly chopped in the food processor, the end result is pure joy.

Crispy Fish Cake Sandwiches call for cod but any mild white fish, including haddock, hake, or pollock, will work. Before pulsing the fish in the food processor, make an herby mayo-based sauce (no need to wash the workbowl afterward). I like equal parts parsley and cilantro, but feel free to double up on a single herb. Garlic, pepper flakes, and red wine vinegar give this sauce plenty of personality.

Use some sauce to bind together the chopped fish and panko, reserving the rest for the sandwich assembly stage. Shape the fish mixture into cakes and coat with more panko. Cook the fish cakes in a hot pan slicked with vegetable oil. How easy.

A crunchy slaw is a must. Green cabbage, red onion, and sweet bell pepper complement each other nicely. Make the slaw first so the lime juice and salt have time to soften the veggies. In fact, you can stow the slaw, sauce, and breaded fish cakes in the fridge for several hours and cook off the fish cakes when you’re ready to eat.

Toasting the buns is essential. Besides adding flavor, it strengthens them. I like oversized brioche buns. A kaiser roll is another excellent choice. And if you’re not a sandwich person (heaven forbid), serve the crispy patties, slaw, and sauce over baby greens.

I’m taking these sandwiches out onto my front porch. Cold beers and potato chips made by the farmer down the road will come along. Here’s to the start of a long, long summer of meals on the porch. Hello neighbors!

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