Dinner Tonight: Toast belongs in your dinner repertoire

Salmon drizzled with Calabrian chile–garlic butter turns humble toast into an elegant supper.

Toast belongs in your dinner repertoire

Jack Bishop Author, editor, and avid home cook

A thick slice of country bread can be the start of many beautiful meals. The Italians have bruschetta. The French make tartines. Avocado toast piled high with toppings may have started in Australia, but it’s now pretty much everywhere—and with good reason.

I always have a hunk of good country bread in the freezer, which allows me to make toast for dinner whenever I want. Salmon Toasts with Calabrian Chile–Garlic Butter is a current favorite because it’s ready in half an hour and really satisfying. Before diving into the particulars, some general rules for successful toasts.

First and foremost, don’t bother unless you have good bread. Avoid bread with huge air pockets. A fairly consistent crumb will do a better job of supporting toppings. Slice the bread thick, at least ¾ inch or even 1 inch (my personal preference). Toast the bread until richly colored. More color equals more flavor and also makes the bread sturdier. Use the broiler or grill if your toaster won’t accommodate big slices.

Layer ingredients thoughtfully on top of your well-toasted bread. Start with something “sticky,” such as mashed avocado or ricotta. Sour cream anchors the arugula and salmon in today’s recipe. (Use cream cheese or plain Greek yogurt if you prefer.) A good schmear is sufficient.

Next, choose boldly flavored toppings that contrast with each other. Peppery arugula is the perfect foil for buttery pan-seared salmon seasoned with garlic and Calabrian chiles. I also love the contrast between sticky mushroom duxelles, silky prosciutto, and grassy shaved asparagus in these simple French tartines.

Finally, serve with a knife and fork. This isn’t toast you pick up! Add a little salad (I’m currently loving this easy herb salad) and you’ve made a beautiful supper.

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