Bob Burbage has worked in the shoe industry since he was 19, when his father, an industry veteran of 50 years, helped secure him his first job. ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏ ͏
The shoemaking industry is a close-knit community. For many businesses, it’s a family affair. Jonathan Jones, our managing director, is the fourth-generation Jones to run our company. Nick, his brother, is our production director. Jonathan has a daughter and son who work here, too. Last issue, we met Gaynor Roberts. Gaynor has eight sisters. At one point, five of them worked at Crockett & Jones, as did her mother and son.
Bob Burbage has worked in the shoe industry since he was 19, when his father, an industry veteran of 50 years, helped secure him his first job. Bob, whose sister is also in shoemaking, has been with Crockett & Jones since 1988. Having served as Supervisor of the Finishing Room for 15 years, Bob now heads up our Preparation Room, spearheading the heel-making department day-to-day. “Originally, when I left school, I wanted to be a mechanic,” says Bob. “Shoemaking was only meant to be a stopgap!”
What do you think distinguishes Crockett & Jones from other shoemakers? Quality and attention to detail. There are very few shoemakers that still make shoes to the quality we do. We have exceedingly high production values – and that all filters down from Jonathan and Nick and the wider Jones family.
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Why do you think it’s important to maintain that level of craftmanship?
It’s about keeping your standards high. Our customers expect a certain level of quality. Take the Finishing Room, for example. There are various jobs that are done by hand, that other manufacturers don’t bother with. But people who understand shoes, pick them up, turn them over, and appreciate the attention to detail that’s gone into them. As soon as you let your standards slip, word gets around.
What do you think is conveyed by the words ‘Made in Northampton’? It’s a stamp of quality. And I think people understand it all over the world. We’ve seen a lot of expansion into Asia, especially Japan. The Japanese care very passionately about quality. And they hold Crockett & Jones in very high regard.
Why are the soles of premium shoes still made from leather? They were always considered more practical, and you could finish them to look nice. It’s a natural material so they are breathable. They are flexible. Obviously, rubber has become more prevalent over the years, but if you turn a shoe over, leather soles still look a heck of a lot smarter, in my opinion, as a purist.
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Manufacturing everything in-house pushes up costs. What makes it worth the investment?
It means we control the entire process. We only buy the best materials from the best suppliers – be it leather, rubber, or anything else we use. Previously, we would buy in our heels and insoles. Now we manufacture them in our factory. Same with our press knives. Every element of quality control is overseen by us. It is the only way.
Will there always be a market for well-made shoes? I think so. As long as people care about what they wear, there will always be a market for the highest quality products. I’m sure that tailors are facing the same issues – the fact that what people wear to work has changed. But there’ll always be people who want to look their best.
Which style of Crockett & Jones shoe is your personal favourite?
I have a personal preference for straight-cap Oxfords. But I also have a pair of our double buckle monk, Lowndes, which I love. I wore them on my daughter’s wedding day.
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