US · tastemade.com

The case for cold soup

Dinner for the days when standing over a stove feels like a personal attack.


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Wait. Don’t toss that out.

Frankie Celenza     |     July 2026

Sobaya, in New York’s East Village, is where I first had these cold noodles, at the urging of my now-wife. It’s really hard to walk into a place where a noodle master, encapsulated in a glass booth for all to observe, hand-makes the strands — and still say, “Today, I'm having the cold ones.” I’m not sure if it was habit or an assumption that “hot” always means better. Long story short, I was hooked. The fresh buckwheat noodles were served on a bed of crushed ice, with a side dipping sauce of soy, dashi, and various sugars. With simplicity like this, fresh scallions get to shine like they do in no other preparation. Maybe my assumptions were misplaced. In America, cold noodles usually mean pasta salad, which usually isn’t exciting. But this is something different. It sounds unusual until the first bite — then it makes perfect sense on a hot day.

Soba are Japanese buckwheat noodles, and the buckwheat gives them a nutty, earthy flavor with more personality than a plain wheat noodle. They hold their own cold instead of fading into the broth. The bowl is flexible too. I keep the soba and broth as the foundation, then let whatever is crisp, fresh, and already in the refrigerator take it from there.

Stick with me here. The broth starts with kombu, dried kelp that brings a deep, savory flavor without demanding hours of my life. It’s the backbone of dashi, and all it really needs is a gentle simmer and a little time to steep. I usually find it in the international aisle near the nori, seaweed snacks, or dried mushrooms. An Asian grocery store will almost always have it. If kombu is nowhere to be found, I use a mild, low-sodium vegetable broth. It will not be exactly the same, but it keeps the bowl light and savory.

In the new Struggle Meals episode, I get into the kombu and spend real time getting the mushrooms actually browned instead of leaving them sad, watery, and steamed. Two small moves, and suddenly the bowl tastes a lot more expensive than it is.

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