I’m going to back in to this discussion here because when I declare something with absoluteness, using words like “definitive, the only, final say”, I need to be able to cite the sources. Not to prove myself right, but rather so you can decide if you agree. Differing opinions are great and expected. But either way, the best opinions are formed on a bedrock of knowledge. I’ll share mine here, ok?

Here’s a luxury I have that most don’t. When we’re designing a new collection, I get to design the perfect shoe to go with it. I don’t have to “make do”, I get to actually get it just right. Now, here’s the thing, shoes are very expensive to make. When you create a new toe shape, heel height, it’s a big investment - the Italians don’t take this task lightly. I’m also fanatical about waste. If I get it wrong, I’ll have made items we won’t wear. You think about unused items in your closet, I do the same, only it’s our warehouse and the idea items stacking up hurts. Quite physically. And when you’re an independent business, run by humans, you have only one data point that will help you understand if something will sell:

“Will I wear it?”

In answering that question, I get to the “how and the why” of it. And it’s in that line of critical thinking that I land at the “what and when”. I’m going to share with you here how to think for yourself about what shoe choices are best for you depending on the way you want to feel coupled with the clothing shape.

Style choices can be a chicken and egg of do I lead with creativity and follow with pragmatism? Or vice versa. But shoes, that’s where the proverbial rubber meets the road. It doesn’t mean pragmatism rules, but it’s often the first consideration, given ones need to actually walk. The nuanced element is how the shoe adds or takes away a vibe. And then that leaves the creative emotional part that is often visceral and only you can tell whether it’s hitting for you or not.

I’m focusing first on key shoe attributes. This gets you in a mindset to think of shoes as tools first, making sure you’re not using a hammer when you require a nail.

A “Cowboy” Style Boot:

The Pointed Toe Pump:

The Toe Shape with a versatile Point Of View:

Here And here

Classic styles made modern:

Here And here And also here

Simple things to consider: the toe shape, a presence or absence of a welt, and the heel height are top of mind to determine the role a shoe will play in your closet. Funny, most of us think it’s about the materials, color and embellishment. That’s the extra fun part, but I consider only after I’ve decided on the role of the shoe.

Now I will show you how I view shoes when designing a new collection. Traci and I first establish the mood we are in and begin exploring the fabrics and drapes that will help give us that feeling in the clothes. Parallel to Traci directing our patternmakers and sewers in the studio, I’m exploring what shoes will help nail the total vibe.

The way I think here will help you in your own wardrobe. I’ll show some key styles here you’re likely to have:

The Full Long Pant

These are the five vibes I want to hit on, not just for a runway show but for my real life.

Ok, that’s enough for part 1. This week’s Style Class was the deep dive here where we show on the models, have links, all that good stuff. Ok?